If you are ever presented with the opportunity to visit Swaziland, please, please take it! I never thought a monarchy could be so good.
I went to Swaziland twice, once with my Danish friends Søren and Rasmus, (soon joined by the ever present Dougie from Canada, my resident brother), and again two days later with my friend Lina from Sweden. The place we stayed is about four hours from Maputo straight through, longer with the stop at the border and the change from bus to combi (the swazi term for chapa) in Manzini. Regardless, it is SO worth it. The part of Swazi we were in is "mountainous" only we pacific northwesterners have a different definition of "mountain" and "big hill". ;) Differing definitions or no, these old lava flow mounds are incredible, consisting of huge boulders of granite, striated granite and huge bare rock formations (forgive me John Richter, it has been SO long since year of the mountain)rising out of the forest in gravity-defying positions. Swaziland is rainier and more fertile than Mozambique, and even though it´s fall right now, the flowers, hibiscus, lillies, and flowering bushes of all kinds line the road. The backpackers lodge in which we, er, lodged, was breath-takingly landscaped, with a stream running through it, avocado trees, white lillies in huge clumps, aloe plants, purple flowering bushes and all sorts of cute and clever paths through the vegetation. It´s called Lidwala Lodge, and for €7 a night you get hot showers, free coffee and tea, a comfortable bunk bed, a big porch with an incredible view, and some of the best company in southern Africa. The lodge was partially filled with volunteers through a program called All-Out Africa, one that seems to be organized, up and running, fun, and jesus C-hrist I don´t think it is in any way corrupted, if you can believe it. They were mostly from England again, so i picked up a Northern English accent and with their help, I actually won a game of pool!
With the danes and dougie I went 4x4-ing....don´t freak out. I did it because it´s partially a community developement project and you get to see parts of Swazi you´d never get to without one....YES, it was terrifying and NO, i´m not doing it again, give me a fast horse any day.
Ok so apparently this internet cafe is closing early for no good reason..... Oh Africa, the beautiful, the stunning, the frustrating.
So there are things I need to say. First off, I have a position in Manhica now, teaching english at a Maristas Brothers religious school and teaching music and theatre at Manhica Cede, the local primary school. This should be perfect, although the curriculum I was given IS English from England, so Iºm gonna have to fudge the rhymes. And what is a block of flats??? An apartment building, right??
My apartment is mine, two little rooms in a house on the main road with lots of friendly neighbors to look after me, no running water but i haul it from the tap next door, an outdoor shower and pit toilet. Looks like I´m getting the experience I expected after all! AJUDE at first told me they wouldn´t pay for it because it´s an apartment and I "didn´t follow procedure", I SWEAR beaurocracy is my worst enemy, but we´re talking now.
I´m moving in tomorrow with the help of my English friend Michael and there is an internet cafe in town so I will flesh this bone structure of a post out soon.
Much love
Allie
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Dear darling Allie,
ReplyDeleteThis is/will be - I hope - in response to your earlier posting when you were feeling your work at the orphanage had been futile. I just want to say that nothing you do heart and mindfully with children is wasted. When that particular interlude seems done, its ripples continue. Just think of your own experiences. You can never know what instant of half-memory may rise to support someone you cared for long after the contact is done. And, of course, what you give does not diminish you. I have also to say, dear girl, that your new situation does not surprise me at all. Like Rapunzel, but you do it yourself. Joana was just here to borrow the skillsaw, and told me you lack a bit of security to move into your apartment. I don't know what the windows are like, but when you are at home and want the door secured, remember that wedges are our friends as they are easy to pull out from within, and don't require one to find the key in a hurry. Allie, how can weeds mature their seeds when it's still fingernumbing cold? Branwyn is pregnant again! Tatha and Laurie are moving to Portland in time to gard my guarden; the apples trees are pruned; and Reed College is going to take my scuppernong. Love, Ellen